Tuesday, October 18, 2016

Western Canada Diaries - 9. Icefields Parkway

[ Continued from Part 8 - Lake Louise and Moraine Lake  ]

The Trans-Canada Highway 1 continues through Banff National Park past Lake Louise.


As you can see in the map above, this highway veers West and goes into the province of British Columbia. To continue through Banff National park, and then onto Jasper National Park, you must take highway 93, also known as the Icefields Parkway, after passing Lake Louise.


The Icefields Parkway is often called the "most beautiful highway in the world". Now it's not definitely the fastest highway - speed limit is usually 90 km/hour throughout. It's definitely not the one with the most lanes - most of the time it's a single lane each direction and if you are stuck behind a slow moving car, you have to move on to the oncoming lane to overtake (when it's safe, of course).
 

Yet it's one of the most beautiful roads in the world, and a pleasure to drive through. You don't want to drive through it fast. You want to take in the rugged landscape of the Canadian Rockies on either side of the highway. In fact, just as we started highway 93, my brother and I wondered whether the hype - most beautiful highway IN THE WORLD - was justified. After we reached Edmonton, we had to agree that yes, the hype was justified.


This is not your dangerous mountainous highway with death defying cliffs on one side. No! For the most part this is one safe, easy to drive, completely non challenging highway with jaw dropping beautiful postcard scenery throughout on either side.

Most of the time people just stop on the right shoulder frequently to take pictures - so beautiful and serene is the wilderness. Every minute we were seeing something or the other that was just so amazing. You would think your eyes would get tired of seeing yet another lake, or yet another mountain, but oh ... my ... God ... this was a feast for the eyes.


Stretching 232km (144mi.) through the heart of the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks World Heritage Site, this highway offers access to a vast wilderness of pristine mountain lakes, ancient glaciers and broad sweeping valleys. We lost count of the number of times we came upon a beautiful lake, surrounded by tall mountains, that was so beautiful and so different from the last beautiful lake surrounded by tall mountains ... you get the idea. This highway winds its way through a unique and irreplaceable landscape rich in history and natural beauty second to none.


Of course, you have to remember we visited this place in the summer. The parkway is busiest in July and August with up to 100,000 vehicles a month. Although I have to say we never felt we were driving on a busy road - traffic flowed naturally.

Snow can be expected at any time of year though, and extreme weather is common in winter. A Canadian national parks permit is required to travel, and in winter, chains or winter-rated radial tires are required by law and road closures are not uncommon. I would NOT want to drive through this road during winter!

Interestingly, parts of the song Pyar Humko Hone Laga from the Bollywood movie Tum Bin was shot on the Icefields Parkway (and Calgary) during the winter. Although in typical Bollywood logic, they are driving an open top convertible with the top down and not wearing any jackets or scarves during the harsh Alberta winter.


There are so many places where we pulled over to take spectacular photos or sample the glacier water trickling down a waterfall. We just took our time, with both planned and unplanned stops along the way. One note of caution: You MUST remember to fill up your gas tank before leaving Lake Louise – there’s only one service station along the entire route.

Remember, this is really in the middle of nowhere.


Even though there's no hairpin turns or stiff climbs, signs were every where warning drivers to look out constantly for wildlife. We were hoping to see a black bear or two, and then all of a sudden we see the cars in front of us slowing down ... because ... of this. A mountain goat!

 
Yup! Mr. Goat decided this was the appropriate time to do an inspection of the highway. Even though there were natural bridges and wildlife crossing points all over, sometimes they do decide to use the highway like us humans!
 


Here's a tip: if you suddenly see a few cars parked to the side of the highway on the shoulder, you should pull over too. Chances are there's an animal everyone wants to see (and photograph) and this is why everyone has pulled over!



Of course this is where I must sound a note of caution, or two.

First, NEVER put yourself in danger when it comes to wild life. They are WILD life. This is especially true with black bears or moose, and particularly when they have their young with them. You do NOT want to mess with an angry mother bear.

Second, you will lose cell phone coverage once you go deep into the Icefields Parkway. There is NO cellphone coverage at all for large parts of the highway, especially in Jasper National Park. Your hotels (which are on the highway, and hopefully you have booked them in advance) may have a landline, but again - no cell phone coverage. So ... er ... don't break down.
 


The weather, as we were driving through the highway, was often spectacular. As we said, we stopped frequently. And sometimes, even when it rained, it quickly cleared up. Some of the best scenes were of lakes. Lakes there were virtually untouched and undisturbed throughout ages. Hopefully they are kept that way for future generations to enjoy.

Monday, October 17, 2016

Western Canada Diaries - 8. Lake Louise and Moraine Lake

[ Continued from Part 7 - Bow Falls and Vermilion Lakes  ]

About half an hour's (at most) drive north of Banff on the Trans-Canada Highway 1 lies a little spot of heaven.


Rockies along the highway

It started to rain heavily as we left Banff and headed for Lake Louise. Now I may have reused that "slice of heaven" phrase often, but as anyone who has visited Lake Louise knows, it's appropriate over and over again to describe this place.

When you park your car, you have to walk for about 5-10 minutes until you are at the lake. All along, you are wondering just how beautiful it could be and will it match the hype. After all, everyone has praised this place, and you have seen the pictures. But how will it be in real life.

Suddenly, you are there. And it hits you.

WOW.


It was over cast but not raining when we arrived at Lake Louise, yet we were mesmerized by the beauty of the serene lake. Not a single mechanical sound could be heard. It was just throngs of people, and nature.


Slowly the clouds started to part as the junction of mountains, glaciers and glacier lakes became more pronounced. I have said it once but it bears repeating - you can NOT take photographs that do justice to the natural beauty of the place. It has to be seen to be believed that such a place exists.


Lake Louise is often termed as the most photographed place in Canada. And it's not hard to see why.

There is a perfect spot on the pier where you stand, and you can see directly opposite you - it's where two mountains meet. Behind it, there's another two mountains meeting. And so on ... the illusion is of several mountains meeting in layers. All of it in front of a glacier in the background. The clouds curve above along the mountains and reflect the colours of the sky and the aqua blue colours of the lake. And then a crimson red canoe slowly drifts in front of you, complimenting the natural colours.


 
Sometimes, if you are very lucky, there may not be a wind across the lake, and the waters will be very still. This is when you can take a perfect picture. The mountains, the glacier, the clouds, all reflected on the crystal water surface of the lake.


 
Panaromic shot of Lake Louise by my brother.
 
 Like some of the lakes here at Banff National Park, there was a canoeing facility at Lake Louise.
 




Now this is one lake I would recommend you spend your money and go for the little exercise.


It's actually worth the money, and I would recommend it over the Lake Minnewanka cruise if you have done that before.


Nothing can prepare you for the feeling of unpolluted, clean, natural breeze in your hair, the sounds of the sparkling water as you peddle across the lake, and the awesome majesty of the tree line (that looks so small but is huge as you near it) and of course, the glorious Rockies.


 
It is worth noting that 2017 marks the 150th anniversary of Canadian Confederation and admission is free to all national parks across Canada, including Banff National Park.

 
There is a Fairmont hotel across from Lake Louise (and very pricey too, during the summer season!). You can explore the hotel grounds and take pictures of the lake from various view points.

 
A view of the waters from the boardwalk across the hotel


We eventually left Lake Louise (rather reluctantly, no one wanted to leave!). A short drive from Lake Louise (about ten to fifteen minutes) is another little lake called Moraine Lake.


Some say Moraine Lake is equally beautiful (and if you see the post cards, some of the pictures are amazing). Unfortunately there was some type of construction when we were there, and besides the kids were getting a little antsy after a busy day, so we couldn't climb this little hillock nearby from which the views are said to be spectacular.


Insha Allah, something to do for next time.


Over all, Lake Louise and Moraine Lake are said to be easily the two most beautiful sights of nature in the world. And I feel blessed seeing both of them. If you are visiting Banff National Park, you can NOT miss either of them.
 

Thursday, October 13, 2016

Western Canada Diaries - 7. Bow Falls and Vermilion Lakes

[ Continued from Part 6 - Lake Minnewanka Cruise  ]

One of the convenient factors about exploring Banff National Park is that most of the popular tourist attractions are located along Trans-Canada Highway 1.


The trip to Banff Gondola and the Lake Minnewanka Cruise can take up to a whole day. We therefore rested for the evening (and this is why you must book hotels in Banff ahead of time - they can get very expensive during the peak season). The plan for the following day was to complete as many attractions as possible before heading to the Columbia Ice fields.


The next morning the weather took a turn for the worse, and unluckily on and off rain was forecast throughout the day. Still, we were there for a holiday, so we had to make the best out of it. The good thing about a mountain destination is that the weather can change quickly, and often. So we took advantage of periods of sunshine to take some nice pictures and travel on the road when it was raining. Somehow, it mostly worked out!

If you look at the map above, you will see Bow River winding and twisting its way through the park. Close to the Banff Gondola was a place where the river went through a small water fall. This is known as Bow Falls.



The river continues onto Bow Lake.



The lakes of Banff National Park remain some of its biggest attractions. The beautiful clean water complimented by a majestic mountain background makes for nice breathtaking views. Pictures never do justice to the amazing beauty that is nature at its most pristine.


You can canoe (or raft) through the Bow River (this is downstream of the waterfall, so you don't go over the falls). Like almost all lakes in the park, motor (or power) boating is banned, so there is no fuel pollution. All boating is manual.


Along the Bow Falls, there is a pathway (note: it's not accessible for strollers as there are stairs) that you can take for a hike. It's an easy hike and we did it even with kids in tow. It leads to more scenic viewpoints, and you can see the grand Fairmont hotel (it looks like a castle).


The viewpoint is actually called Surprise Corner, as from here you can see the Bow River, the Bow Falls as well as the Fairmont hotel (called the Banff Springs Hotel).



This is also the lookout point if you want to do a panoramic shot of both Bow Lake and the Bow Falls.



Around 5 minutes north of the town of Banff (and Bow Lake) is Vermilion Lakes drive, which is a small road off the highway that goes past the Vermilion Lakes. As we were enjoying the view (and just before taking the pictures!) it started to rain. Hurried we scrambled to the car, so most of the pictures we have of this wonderful sight is dotted with rain.






I am also including a picture from the park's official website describing the Vermilion Lakes.


This shows Mount Rundle in the sunrise.

Overall Bow Falls, Bow Lake and Vermilion Lakes should take around a couple of hours. You can of course spend as much (or less) time as you need. Choose a clear day (if feasible) and go as early in the day as you can for the best photographs. An attraction in Banff not to be missed.
 

Thursday, October 06, 2016

Western Canada Diaries - 6. Lake Minnewanka Cruise

[ Continued from Part 5 - Banff Sulphur Mountain Gondola  ]

Lake Minnewanka Boat Cruise is one of the four attractions on the Ultimate Explorer Combo.


It's a very short drive from the Banff Gondola, and you can do both in a single day if the weather is nice. Keep in mind that mountain weather changes often. If you don't like it, wait ten minutes.


The cruises are on medium sized boats (usually there's just one level). They really discourage power boats on these lakes (pollution can spoil their pristine beauty) so this is one of the only lakes where they allow cruises (there's another one up north in Jasper but it was closed this year).


There's a guide on each boat. We got one really humorous one who kept on piling facts at us with lots of fun during the cruise, pointing out what we were seeing and sprinkling interesting trivia about the local geography.


For example, this slight gap between the two mountain ranges is called The Devil's Gap. I wish there was no wind when we made our cruise so the water could be really still, but it wasn't so. In fact it was slightly breezy and we had to wear our light jackets (in the summer!).


What was interesting was that one side of the lake the mountains had one look, and the other side had a completely different look. This was due to different trees on either side, as well as effects of past forest fires.






A little bit more about the interestingly named Devil's Gap. This is the end of the Rockies. Beyond that the plains start and soon you will be in Saskatchewan.



So. Many. Trees. We actually learnt that sometimes firemen would set fire deliberately to a section of the trees to clear a route so that future forest fires could be controlled. Note: This plan did not ALWAYS work.


Overall it was a good cruise. However, if you have done it before, you don't really need to do it again. It's not a MUST do - I would rather spend the money and go canoeing on Lake Louise. However, if you are here once, go ahead and do it ... because that's what everyone does.